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The North Cyprus Palace at Vouni
(comprehensive version)
 

On this mountain in North Cyprus, overlooking the village of Vouni below, stands a palace. As you look at the fragmentary walls, let your guide be a figure from 483 B.C., when Persia and Greece fought to dominate the island. Cyprus is divided into several small kingdoms. Your guide is Himilcar, elder statesman and advisor to Doxandros, King of Marion. Marion is a city not far away, and the Persians built this palace for Doxandros, who has sworn loyalty to them.


Come to the old entryway on the southwest side of the building. Can you hear Himilcar mumbling to himself as he approaches the palace?

“Fifteen years, it’s been fifteen years since the Greeks of Ionia began the Great Revolt. Did they learn nothing from defeat?

“Oh, greetings, stranger. I did not see you there. Come here, under the porch. Our hot Cypriot sun will bake your brains otherwise. What is the Great Revolt, you ask? By the gods, who are you and in what cave have you been living? The Greek cities of Ionia in Asia Minor rebelled against our Persian King of Kings. The Cypriot kings who favored Greece, in cities like Soli, may its fields be plowed with salt, those cities also rose in revolt.

“But the revolt was doomed from the start. Vast are the domains of the King of Kings. His empire stretches from Egypt to India and his army is beyond counting. He crushed the Ionians, who sent precious little aid to Soli, let me tell you. And soon he will crush those pesky Athenians too.

“But come in, come in. My King Doxandros is at his home in the city of Marion. I am left in charge here. I am Himilcar, chief adviser to Doxandros. I don’t suppose you’ve ever been in a Persian palace. Of course this is on a small scale. But it really is Persian, Persian designed and Persian built.

“How did that happen, you ask? I told you about the Great Revolt. Cyprus was part of the Persian Empire then, as, of course, it is now. My city, Marion, and King Doxandros remained loyal to the Persians. As a reward, the King of Kings sent one of his own architects to build this palace, and all the craftsmen and all the gold he needed, as well.”

A pair of guards in bronze armor, their round shields slung across their back and their long swords sheathed, stands in front of the doorway. Another pair of guards is just inside.

In a corner of the room sits a scribe. He sits cross-legged on a cushion, his writing board across his knees. At his side are sheets of papyrus paper, sharpened reeds he will use as pens, and a clay jug of ink.

“See the scribe, there in the corner? He still writes with our old script. We learned the letters of it from the Minoans, but use it for our own Cypriote language. The scribe keeps a record of visitors and their wants.

“Come down the stairs here on the right. These are living quarters for the scribes, the chief cook, the lady of the seals, and for me. My own room is largest. That connecting room is where my wife lived, while she lived. She was lady of the seals, in charge of the royal household.

“Across the hallway from our living quarters are the palace storerooms. Here the king keeps stores of food, of cloth, of precious herbs and dyestuffs. See how the large vases, the amphorae, are sunk into the ground. Back toward the front of the palace are the guard rooms. You can hear the guards laughing over a dice game. No, they don’t live there. They are on duty, passing time until they are needed.

“Come through here into the reception rooms. The ordinary people wait in this first room. On the right is the king’s official recorder. On the left is the queen’s. People come here to have land transfers recorded, to pay taxes, to bring a case before the court. All those matters and more besides pertain to the king. The queen deals mainly with religious matters and marriage disputes.

“Come, come, don’t be shy. The people you see in this third room are the wealthy and the noble. You can tell by the lavish embroidery on their robes. The rich have threads of gold and silver; the noble can wear Tyrian purple, most precious of dyes.

“My own office is on the right side of this last waiting room. Just take a peek and see the jumble of scrolls on my desk. Every day I fall farther behind. Now we go straight ahead into the throne room.

“Come up these seven steps. Seven, you must know, is a mystical number. And the steps are broad to announce that the king will receive all his people. Of course he sees mainly the important ones. See the brightly painted columns and the thrones. There the king and queen sit to receive petitioners and well-wishers. The rich and the noble stroll about here, seeking favor, always plotting for favor.

“The queen’s apartments are on the left, with the children’s room and another room for the maidservants. The king and his son have rooms on the right, along with their body servants. Magnificent as these rooms are, with their painted walls and the pots of lilies and roses to perfume the air, I will show you the real wonder of the palace.

“See here behind the King’s chamber? Two bathrooms with toilets and beyond them, a hot bath. The water comes from our own cisterns and is heated and piped in. You’ll find nothing like it between Crete and Persia.

“We can go through here to the large courtyard. The rooms all around are storerooms and garrison rooms for the troops. The armor and weapons are stored here, along with food supplies. See the well? It goes into a cavern we have cut into the very rock of the mountain. It serves as one of many cisterns that hold winter rain for us to use all year long.

“Excuse me, please. I must speak to that fellow over there. Please, see what you like in this courtyard and the rooms around it.”

The courtyard is filled with activity. Muscular men in kilts are polishing armor in the shade. In one corner a smith is putting a new cutting edge on a pile of swords. The cook and her assistants are plucking chickens across the way, singing softly as they work. But here is Hamilcar returning.

“Who was he? The man I spoke with? No harm in telling you, I suppose. He is one of my spies.

“Of course I have spies. How else would I know what is going on in Soli? Soli and Marion have been neighbors and rivals for a thousand years. When Marion allowed the Phoenicians to trade and even settle in the town, then Soli brought in the Greeks.

“Why is Marion pro-Persian? Well, there are two reasons. One, the obvious, is that Marion does a lot of trade with Asia. But the real reason is that Soli is pro-Greek.

“Now King Xerxes is preparing the Persian army to march on Greece. He will need ships from Cyprus to transport troops, armor, food. He needs to know which cities will support him, and which might try to stab him in the back. Soli rose against Persia once, and might do so again. So, I have spies in Soli.

“I must return to my work. But you feel free to wander about. May Anat bless you in your comings and goings.”

So farewell to the old ghost, from a time long ago when Asia and Europe held Cyprus in a tug-of-war and bitterness divided city from city. He cannot know that in twenty years the Greeks at Soli will take the palace and re-orient it with a new entrance; build a temple of Athene where Himilcar worshipped Anat; and use her sacred standing stone as a windlass for well.


Copyright 2006 SeaTerra
For a non copyrighted version of this article which can be reprinted please go to The North Cyprus Palace at Vouni

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